Showing posts with label bread. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bread. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Cook the Books 2013 - Marcella Hazan & the Essentials of Italian Cooking

I was struck not only with sadness at the recent passing of Marcella Hazan, but also with a bit of déjà vu. Last year cooking legend Marion Cunningham passed away while I was just a few weeks into cooking my way with a group of friends through her famed The Breakfast Book. This time, it happened just days before Cook the Books 2013 was to begin cooking from Hazan's Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking. What better tribute to these enormously influential women chefs, than to cook their food?


Frittata is one of those dishes my mom whips up regularly, and one she taught me to make early on. Though she uses a different style than Marcella's, this of course just made me want to try my hand at a different technique. I based my frittata on the one with Tomato, Onion and Basil on p 281, but instead used cherry tomatoes, broccoli, kale, and fresh sage and thyme. I ended up baking mine in the oven (alternative method on p 279) versus using her broiler method. This was a satisfying and healthy breakfast dish which was very easy to prepare. And, leftovers are extra handy for workday mornings.




Minestrone is a favorite. And it is officially soup weather, so the Minestrone alla Romagnola (pp 84-6) recipe was a no-brainer pick for me. And one I did not regret. This large batch fed us numerous times, over many days...and was filling and satisfying every time. I'm with Marcella, taking the time to slow cook a flavorful soup base is where it's at. Go onions and carrots and celery! Minestrone, is a soup par excellence, with simple ingredients making magic together.




Pan-Roasted Potatoes with Anchovies, Genoa Style. Period. Do I need to say anything else? Yes, I suppose I must, or you might not understand how crazy delicious these are. Crispy, golden, soft, salty, with a kick from the anchovies that is not at all fishy. Oh yeah. With slight deviance from the recipe, I added the garlic in with a few minutes left to cook, and then the parsley with a minute or two more in the pan before serving. Everything. was. just. right. There were no leftovers.




Foccaccia with Rosemary: it's hard to go wrong here. While I'm not a big bread baker, I've made my share—but never focaccia! Which I love. In fact, I think I might have subsisted on this delicious tomato-y scallion-topped focaccia in Santa Cruz during my college years. Anyhow, memory lane aside, this focaccia was very easy to make and has great olive oil flavor. And it's fun to stab it with your fingers for the "pockets". I would definitely top mine with sea salt next time and see if I could get the dough right with a little less flour, making it more moist and soft. Also, this makes a honkin' slab of focaccia. If you're not having a party, get ready to pop some in the freezer (per Marcella's advice) or make your friends and co-workers very happy with fresh baked bread. Heck, do both.





Eggplant Parmesan is another one of my mom's staples. But in this case, it has meant I've never made it myself. Yup, eggplant lover and all, I'd never made this beaut of a dish before. And there's no going back now. I think I cut the eggplant a bit thick, which meant it soaked up too much olive oil, which I didn't drain very effectively (apparently), so it was a bit heavy. I'd look to thinner slices, and less oil next time. But so glad this has made it into my repertoire, and I liked the colander layer technique for salting and "purging" the eggplant.



The best thing I can say about this book? I didn't want to stop cooking from it. You won't either. Though I do feel like I need to go on a diet after eating potatoes and focaccia and fried cheesy eggplant in just the past few days. Oh wait, next month's pick is The Dahlia Bakery Cookbook, so that plan is a farce. Onward I march in the name of Cook the Bookery...

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Cooking The Breakfast Book, Chapter 3: Custard-Filled Cornbread

Marion Cunningham is right. This recipe is pure magic. It's indulgent and rich and comforting, so I especially recommend making it on a cold day, or if you've got a case of the blues. It will both make you warm and bring a smile to your face. 



When I was deciding what to eat this with, sausages were the first thing that came to mind. Then I remembered that there is a menu section in the back of the book. Indeed, this is the recommended menu featuring this recipe: Fresh Peaches and Berries, Custard-Filled Cornbread and Breakfast Sausage. Thanks for making it all so easy Marion.

I think I prefer a more savory cornbread, so this was just a smidgen too sweet for me. Next time (oh yes, there will be a next time) I'll reduce the sugar.


Pouring in the cream

Fresh from the oven

First peek of the surprise inside

Magical filling

Perfect combination of crispy and smooth

Luscious creaminess in every bite


Custard-Filled Cornbread
Adapted from The Breakfast Book by Marion Cunningham
Serves 8


2 eggs
3 tablespoons butter, melted
3 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups milk
1 1/2 tablespoons white vinegar
1 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup yellow cornmeal
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 350°. Butter an 8" square baking dish and place it in the oven to get hot while you make the batter.

Crack your eggs into a large mixing bowl and add the melted butter. Beat until well blended and then add the sugar, salt, milk and vinegar, continuing to beat well. 

In a separate bowl stir together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and baking soda and add it into the egg mixture. Mix it only long enough to remove lumps and the batter is smooth.

Pour the batter into the heated dish and follow immediately by pouring the cream into the center of the batter. Do not stir! Bake for an hour or until lightly browned. 

Serve while warm.


A most accurate recipe intro


Now go take a virtual bite of the Quick Breads made by my fellow Cook-the-Bookers:

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Cooking The Breakfast Book, Chapter 1: Oatmeal Orange Bread

When I walked solo into the Herbivoracious event at the stunning Cookhouse space a few months ago, I had no idea I would leave so inspired by Michael Natkin's cooking and his luscious cookbook, or that I would eat and laugh and walk out the door with a gang of interesting and accomplished women. As we parted, we talked of getting together soon, and our plan somehow became meeting for "Sausage Tuesday" at my neighborhood German joint, Schmidt's. As we later ran through the calendar attempting to find a mutually-agreeable date for everyone via email, Rachel of Ode to Goodness suggested we do a Cook the Book project together, and recommended a favorite, The Breakfast Book by Marion Cunningham.

Some of our Cook the Book gang after our first meeting

We all heartily agreed, and although I am a big fan of The Fannie Farmer Cookbook by Cunningham — and an even bigger fan of breakfast — I was not familiar with the The Breakfast Book. If you aren't either, read the Gourmet magazine review here or David Lebovitz's musings on the author here, and hopefully you will follow along as we cook our way through it and will come to appreciate the warmth and character of this delightful classic.




The book is filled with illustrations and charming asides that are a wonderful expression of Ms. Cunningham's personality and old-fashioned style. For example, she provides 14 rules for 'Breakfast Table Civility and Deportment'. I was relieved to see that according to her guidelines you don't have to get dressed and can read the newspaper at the table...

Now that the rules of the game are set, let's get to cooking!

Chapter 1: Yeast Breads


Out of a chapter of full of tempting recipes, I chose the Oatmeal Orange Bread and had no regrets. Like most yeast breads it does take a good amount of time, but the end result is a moist, flavorful bread that stayed fresh for a number of days.







































This is a toothsome and versatile bread. It's not too sweet, with zesty flavor and the oatmeal gives it great texture. Both versions of this bread made incredible toast and sandwiches. This is a go-to for PBJs and the non-glazed version is also great with more savory toppings.

I opted for the Orange Marmalade glaze variation on one of the two loaves in order to compare. While it did supply a nice second layer of citrus, make sure to process the orange so it's finely chopped and less chunky. Cunningham's recipe specified coarsely chopped for a marmalade-like result, where I think something closer to a true glaze with tiny chunks would be nicer.


Oatmeal Orange Bread

Adapted from The Breakfast Book by Marion Cunningham
Makes 2 loaves

Ingredients:

For the bread:

1/2 cup warm water
1 teaspoon plus 2 tablespoons sugar
2 packages active dry yeast
1 1/4 cups milk, warmed
2 tablespoons butter, room temperature
1 3/4 teaspoons salt
2 cups cooked oatmeal (made from rolled oats)
6 cups all-purpose flour, approximately
1 orange, quartered, seeded and ground in a food processor (or coarsely chopped to make 1 cup)

For the Orange Marmalade glaze (optional):

1 orange, quartered, seeded and ground in a food processor (or finely chopped to make 1 cup)
1 cup of sugar

As you prepare your ingredients, cook enough rolled oats for 2 cups of cooked oatmeal.

When the oatmeal is close to done, mix 1 teaspoon of sugar into 1/2 cup warm water in a large bowl. Add the contents of 2 packages of dry active yeast and let for 5-10 minutes, until frothy.

Warm the milk, and add it to the yeast mixture along with the butter, salt, remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar, cooked oatmeal and 3 cups of flour. Stir vigorously until well mixed and add only enough flour by half cup until it forms a workable dough.

{Note: I ultimately needed upwards of 7 1/2 cups of flour, due in part to the fact I didn't let the oatmeal cook long enough because of bad recipe reading/timing. Cunningham's recipe called for only 5 cups of flour which I found to be fairly inaccurate. Next time I make this bread I will definitely weigh my flour to ensure proper flour measurements and adjust the amount accordingly.}

Add the chopped orange and knead with your hands for 1 minute, or for 15 seconds with a dough hook attachment in a food processor. After letting the dough rest for 10 minutes, begin kneading again and continue until it is elastic and smooth.

Grease a large bowl and place the dough inside covered by plastic wrap, until it has doubled in size. Sprinkle your work surface with flour and punch the dough down and divide it into equal halves. Place each half in a greased medium-sized loaf pan and allow to rise to the top of the pan.

Preheat oven to 375° and place pans on middle rack. Bake for 45 minutes or until beginning to brown on top. Place on racks to cool.

For the glazed Orange Marmalade version:
Quarter, seed and finely grind an orange in a food processor to make 1 cup. Mix with 1 cup of sugar in a small saucepan and cook on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until all the sugar is dissolved and the glaze becomes shiny. Let it cool and then brush onto the top of the loaves 10 minutes before they are done cooking. If you are only glazing one loaf, reduce ingredients by half.


Oatmeal Orange Bread, both ways

Don't miss out on a still-warm buttered bite!


My fellow Cook the Book cohorts are five excellent food bloggers who I feel lucky to be in the company of: Rachel of Ode to Goodness, Natasha of Non-Reactive Pan, Emily of The Bon Appetit Diaries, Claudie of The Bohemian Kitchen and Sammy of Rêve du Jour. Click through to check out each of their Chapter 1 choices, and be ready for our next Breakfast Book foray in 2 weeks.

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Brioche - Cook It! 2012: February Resolution + Cardamom Rose French Toast Recipe

Even though I've been madly pinning bread recipes for a while now, and have been dutifully keeping my sourdough starter alive, February was a bear of a month for me, so all the more complex bread fantasies dancing in my head were tossed out the window.

Luckily one of my favorite breads to eat is relatively easy to make, (famous last words, right?) but I've never done it before  in fact I've never baked bread before...so it's the perfect second round of my Cook It! 2012 resolutions! {You can see my first round here, and Grow It Cook It Can It's entire fabulous pasta round-up here}

The recipe I went to for my brioche is from Leite's Culinaria, in part because the Portuguese Olive-Oil Orange Cake on this site hasn't let me down yet. It's perfect for potlucks in particular, not just because it's pretty and easy to transport, but it actually gets better after a day or two, so you can make ahead of time when busy.

On to the bread-making...

Maybe because I tend to be an improvisational cook, using recipes as inspiration more than a prescription, sometimes when I'm baking I have a hard time doing that crucial first step: read the entire recipe thoroughly ahead of time. I know this, but still often fail at it. This go around it meant my butter and eggs weren't room temperature, but I had already mixed the yeast in with the milk and sugar. My solution: I sliced the butter into pats and put them on the wrapper inside the oven. It was turned off of course, but the pilot keeps it warmer than room temp in there, so I only had about 10 extra minutes to wait until they felt soft enough to stir into the dough by hand.

Really the only other notes for next time are to use a little more butter when greasing the pans (some of the corners stuck a bit) and to start earlier in the day! Oh and maybe to start working out more. Mixing dough by hand is hard work. It's either that or buy a stand mixer. But really if I'm going to be baking brioche regularly, I think working out is the better solution.

Set out your ingredients (and read your recipe!)

Yeast activates within 5-10 minutes

Note bubbles around edge and foamy surface

Mix in your eggs

Brace yourself for an arm workout

Stir in butter tablespoon or a two at a time

Add remaining flour 1/2 c. at a time until dough is shiny

Mine was still a bit sticky, but I felt it was ready

Dough after first rise

Punch down dough and knead it briefly

Add to buttered pans and leave to rise again until doubled

Second rise, after an hour looks good

Baste egg wash onto your loaves

Prepare for a delicious smell 

And gorgeous loaves

That you will want to slice into immediately

Making your own bread is incredibly satisfying!

And the nice airy slices are pretty!


I believe the first bite of all fresh-from-the-oven bread should be with a bit of butter on it. After that I recommend eating it with brie. It also makes great toast, and bread pudding. I'm not sure there's anything it doesn't go well with, truthfully. But it is super for delicious french toast, so I went that route for the recipe inclusion.


Hot bread & butter = nothing better

Toasted with brie feels decadent


Recipe for Cardamom Rose Brioche French Toast 


2 slices of day-old brioche
3 large eggs
~3 Tbs milk
1/4 tsp of vanilla extract
Dash of rose water (you want just a light rose flavor, so don't use a lot or it will overwhelm)
Couple pinches of freshly ground cardamom
4-5 scrapes of freshly ground nutmeg
Cinnamon and confectioner's sugar for sprinkling
Optional: Scrapings from 1/2 a vanilla bean
Maple syrup and fresh fruit for serving

Cut brioche into 3/4-inch slices. Lightly whisk eggs and milk together, adding vanilla extract, rose water, nutmeg and cardamom (and vanilla bean if using).

Place a slice of bread in mixture to soak while you heat pan, adding a pat of butter to use for cooking. Turn bread over at least once so that it gets well soaked, but not sodden.

Add first slice to pan to cook on medium heat, while putting second slice into egg mixture. Sprinkle cinnamon on top side of toast as it cooks, repeating when you flip it. Cook each side approximately 2 minutes until lightly browned.





Serve immediately with maple syrup, fresh fruit and a sprinkling of confectioner's sugar.

Alternatively you may heat your maple syrup with a dash of rose water and bit of butter instead of adding to your egg mixture.

Serves 2



Speaking of two, if both loaves are too much temptation to have around (not speaking from experience or anything), you can always freeze one for some other rainy day.

Fortuitously, March's resolution is homemade butter. As noted above, you know I don't have stand mixer, which means I will make this by shaking jars around for a long time. Perfect! It goes with my work out more theme, and of course the butter can be used for more brioche and other good things.