Cook the Books 2013 - Street Food hits the food swap and our table

The June Cook the Books selection was Street Food by Susan Feniger. Ohbriggsy wrote a great intro for this cookbook—and the cook behind it—and then Grow & Resist followed suit with an excellent review, so I won't do too much more on that front here.

Most important is how excited this cookbook got me. As soon as I started turning the pages, lots of recipes instantly vied for my attention, and I quickly had a slate of dishes I was craving to make. And, I fared pretty well on that front this month!

Croatian Sour Apple Fritters with Orange Sugar

Homemade apple fritters seemed like a far-fetched dream. Ambrosia of gods I didn't believe in...about as likely to end up on on my table as, I dunno, something really fantastical. Maybe I'm just such a sucker for interesting providence and fun-to-make condiments, but this one got me hook line and sinker. I knew I had to make them. And so I did. Happy to report my first real deep-frying experience was carried out, over two days, with no burns and many piping hot, just-greasy-enough, airy fritters. I recommend these highly! Cooking notes include making them small enough to cook all the way through, and under no circumstances should you skip the orange sugar.

We made these over a Saturday, Sunday morning sequence because even with a half recipe this makes a lot of fritters. On the second day we didn't have enough of the orange sugar left, and no oranges on hand to make more, so I pulled a few things from the pantry for a fritter smorgasbord. Below left is Chocolate Sugar and Earl Gray Tea Dust (adapted from this book), both scored from Angela at the swap. They provided fun and flavorful variation—I would definitely experiment further on this front if we make them again.

Because we had so many fritters, we carried a plateful to our next-door neighbor's house. It was Father's Day and boy was he surprised and excited to receive an unexpected serving of homemade donuts! Yeah, that was fun too. Big ups to my sweetie for helping man the fritter factory and being my número uno partner in crime.

Coconut Curry Caramel Corn

This recipe was love at first glance too. First of all, I had never made caramel corn, and it seemed both challenging and fun. Secondly, the sweet/savory combo sounded awesome. And, it featured the Candied Peanuts made with kaffir lime leaves (an obsession of mine), which was an attractive progression from the Kaffir Lime & Chile Spiced Cashews I've made, and swapped, in the past. Plus it uses fresh curry leaf, an ingredient I see regularly at my favorite Asian market and have long wanted to find a use for. Winning all around. Lastly, making this coincided nicely with our June food swap, and a recipe yielding 18 cups of anything seemed made for swapping. The fresh curry taste from the leaves was amazing. Familiar, yet so different than what you get from powder. A definite candidate for future parties and camping trips.

Thai Tea Pudding

I work across the street from two different Thai restaurants, and Thai iced tea has become an occasional late afternoon treat instead of coffee or a sweet. (It's a natural twofer!). I'm a mad fan, and pudding is probably my favorite dessert in general, so this one was obviously going to make the cut. And again, it provided the opportunity to buy another strange ingredient from the Asian grocery. Happiness all around. When I asked if there were smaller bags than the lifetime supply size (1 lb.), the man shook his head no apologetically, but then countered with "but it's only $3!" Not really the point, but I appreciated, and succumbed to his salesmanship. My cheesecloth straining went a little awry due to my impatience trying to get this pudding in my mouth, but it was only a small amount of tea and fine spice particles, so it actually added nice dimension and visual appeal to this orange beauty. I skipped the lime caramel and candied cashews, toppings suggested in the book, but would for sure give them a try if making this for guests or a bigger crowd.

Brussel Sprouts with Goat Cheese, Apples, and Hazelnuts
No big story here except that I like brussel sprouts, thought cooking a veggie couldn't be a bad idea, and we have crazy delicious hazelnuts from Oregon from C's mom that wanted a date with apples and goat cheese. This was simple to make and a great side dish. I might even mix it up and bring this to Thanksgiving instead of my usual brussel sprouts preparation.

Chilled Soba Noodles with Spicy Orange Sesame and Tofu
We've been having totally wonky weather in SF recently. All year even. But right now, instead of June gloom, we have grey skies, actual rain, and humidity. It's weirdly warm. So cold noodles are just the thing. I skipped the scallions and used regular sesame seeds instead of black ones since that's what I had on hand. I also McGyvered the spicy sesame oil by using some regular sesame oil, some homemade spicy Sichuan oil, and some red pepper flakes. This dish had some kick! I felt like it would be better with more than just the tofu in it. I think the leftovers will get a dose of broccoli rabe and chicken for good measure. And I got lots of extra sauce on hand. Nearly enough for another round. We'll see what the weather brings...

So that's the cast of characters this month. All worthy of a redux. My only issue with this cookbook is the yield of the recipes. I don't run a restaurant, so for example, I don't need 40 fritters! Even when I cut recipes in half, it seemed like a lot of food. But in my experience the food from these recipes was reliably satisfying almost all the time. I liked the ingredient spotlights for things a little more out of the ordinary, the condiments section, and the easy-to-follow recipe directions. Even though I got it from the library, I'd rate this a keeper cookbook.

Cook the Books 2013: Soup weather = Tom Yum Goong

March was filled with more work travel, lots of family occasions and visitors, and now a cold...so it didn't allow me much time in the kitchen to try out this month's Cook the Books selection, Good Fish by Becky Selengut. But, my Tom Yum Goong (Spicy Shrimp and Lemongrass) soup was just what the doctor ordered, and I've got the ingredients on-hand to make the Wild Salmon Chowder with Fire-Roasted Tomatoes and Quinoa Cakes with Smoked Trout and Chive Sour Cream in the next few days. I also have BIG love for sardines, so always have them in the pantry and will try not just her version of Pasta con la Sarde for sure, but the fresh Skillet Sardines too.

Anyhow, on to what I did make...

Cooking shallots and lemongrass is up there in terms of kitchen smells, but it's the kaffir lime leaves that are the magic ingredient here and will transport you right into the heart of Thailand as you cook this deliciously, evocatively, fragrant broth. Or at least that's what happened to me.

Though this isn't an overly complex recipe, making the stock takes some time, so once again I broke it down over two days. Be sure to brown the shrimp shells over high heat in order to impart their distinctive flavor to the broth.

Tom Yum Goong (Spicy Shrimp & Lemongrass Soup)
Adapted from Good Fish by Becky Selengut
Serves 4

2 tablespoons high-heat vegetable oil (I used safflower)
1 medium onion, diced
1 small carrot, diced
2 ribs of celery, diced
1 lb shrimp, peeled and deveined (shells reserved)
5 to 6 cups of water
3 tomatoes, medium dice, or one 14-oz can of diced tomatoes with their juice
6 Kaffir lime leaves, or zest of 1 lime
6-8 thin slices of fresh, peeled galangal or ginger
2 jalapeños, halved (remove the seeds and membranes if you want to decrease the heat of your soup)
1/2 cup sliced shallots
3 stalks of lemongrass, cut into 1-inch pieces, woody top half discarded
1 cup cremini or button mushrooms, thickly sliced
3 tablespoons fish sauce
3-6 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice (2-3 limes)
Salt
Whole cilantro leaves, for garnish

Making the soup stock

Add 1 tablespoon of oil to a stockpot over medium-high heat. Once hot, add the onion, carrot, and celery and saute for about 5 minutes, until lightly browned.

Turn the heat up to high and add the reserved shrimp shells. They will turn their recognizable pink almost immediately, but saute about 3-4 minutes until they are lightly browned.

Add the water to the pot. If you are using canned tomatoes, drain the juice into a measuring cup and add enough water to total 6 cups.

Stir in the sliced galangal, jalapeños, and kaffir lime leaves and bring to a boil.

Scrape the bottom of the pot to loosen any browned bits and simmer gently for approximately 30 minutes. (This is when the fragrance magic happens)

Strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve and set aside. If you make the night before, store the stock in the fridge overnight.

Making the soup

Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat, and add the shallots and lemongrass. Saute about 8-10 minutes until  lightly browned.

Add the mushrooms, tomatoes and reserved stock and bring to a gentle boil. Reduce to a simmer and add the fish sauce. Simmer for another 10 minutes, then add the shrimp and turn off the heat (the residual heat will do the cooking for you).

Add the juice of 2 limes and season to taste with salt. Add more fish sauce if necessary, as well as lime juice which will brighten the flavors. A little sugar or honey can help if your soup is tart or bitter.

Be sure to taste the soup at this stage and balance the flavors according to your palate.

Serve garnished with cilantro leaves, and remember you can lightly chew on the lemongrass stalks to release some of their flavor, but do not try to eat them!

Cooking notes:
While deveining shrimp is not the sexiest job in the kitchen, it was actually a first for me and I kind of enjoyed it. This takes about 10 minutes, so plan your prep and cooking time accordingly. Selengut's website includes a number of how-to videos, including one on deveining shrimp.

I had exactly, to the drop, 3 tablespoons of fish sauce left in the bottle. I love it when that happens!

Here's an in-depth, Spring-filled post reviewing this cookbook by Oh, Briggsy, with the monthly round-up post coming soon from Grow & Resist!

Swapper Profile: Christina Moretta + Spicy Pickled Carrots Recipe

Christina at Anchor Steam Brewery

'Tis the season, for another swapper profile! It is with great joy I present to you Christina Moretta. Christina is one of those people I have undoubtedly been at countless parties and events with over the years, but we never actually met until last year through the swap. Despite friends in common, interests in common (books, photography, drinks, getting creative in the kitchen and more), and being denizens of the same neighborhood, I'm thankful we've now tightened up the orbit and count each other as friends. A regular at swaps when her busy dance card allows, she's wowed us with her creative Dolores Street packaging and scrumptious items such as spiced walnuts, ginger simple syrup, pie dough and deliciously spicy pickled carrots which she has shared the recipe for below. Read on and raise a virtual glass to a fellow swapper. Her shining smile, convivial nature and inquisitive mind make her a great conversationalist, so be sure to chat it up with her next time you're swapping.

Name: Christina Moretta

Home (+ hometown swap): San Francisco

Profession: librarian / archivist / photo curator

How did you first get involved in food swapping?

I met Aimee at a mutual friend’s holiday party and she mentioned that she had started a food swap. It sounded like a perfect match for me. It did take a couple swaps to occur before my schedule finally matched a swap date. My first swap I attended was October 2011 and there was a lot of excitement because The Bold Italic was there to do an article.

What did you make for the last food swap and what inspired your choice?

I made pickled carrots and garlic confit. My inspiration was the surplus of produce I had from our weekly CSA box that we receive from Terra Firma. The garlic confit recipe came from the Bi-Rite Market’s Eat Good Food.

What’s your favorite thing about swapping?

I like that I can try new things that I would never consider making. After I have the new swap item, it motivates me to try new things (i.e., pepita butter).

Who or what most influences your cooking? My Terra Firma box definitely drives my weekly cooking. I have been a CSA member since 1994, and I have successfully achieved seasonal cooking. My daughter is vegan and for the last two years I have been experimenting with vegan cooking. The majority of our meals are vegan based on the amazing cookbooks and blogs that provide tasty recipes. My favorite vegan cookbook is Eat, Drink & Be Vegan: Everyday Vegan Recipes Worth Celebrating by Dreena Burton.

What’s your favorite kitchen tool?

My grandma’s wooden spoon. Every time I use it, I have a flash of my grandma’s oatmeal (with lots of brown sugar and butter!). I spent a lot of time in both of my grandmas’ kitchens. On the maternal side, I learned how to make red pepper jelly and bake and on the paternal side, I learned northern Italian dishes (usually Americanized).

Your current flavor or ingredient obsession? Preserved lemons. I made these for the first time in January. A little preserved lemon in a dish changes all of the flavors, and I add it into everything now!

Biggest food surprise?

Shopping at Duc Loi Supermarket on 18^th & Mission Streets. I think the whole world is in that store!

If the Rapture came tomorrow, what would your last meal on earth be?

All of my favorite foods: olives, super delicious pizza, veggie lasagna, sautéed kale with garlic, and a shot of apple cider vinegar. 

When I'm not in the kitchen I'm...reading, riding my bike to & from work, spending time with my daughter & boyfriend, shaking it with my Sunday Skool dance class, knitting, and doing lots of cool city outings.

Favorite local food experience: I consistently enjoy my dining experience at Foreign Cinema and we love doing take out from Mission Chinese Food.

Recipe from Christina: 

Spicy Pickled Carrots (adapted from a variety of recipes)

Yield: about 2 pints

Ingredients:

1 cup water

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1.5 cups white vinegar ( ½  cup can be apple cider vinegar)

½ cup of chardonnay (or any white that’s in the fridge)

1 ounce chiles de arbol, stems removed

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon oregano

1 teaspoon kosher salt (plus more to taste)

1 pound organic carrots, peeled and cut into thin rounds

1/4 cup slivered onions

1 head of garlic

1 jalapeño, seeds and stem removed, sliced

Method:

In a medium-sized pot, add the water, vegetable oil, vinegar, wine and chiles de arbol. Bring to a boil and then turn the heat down to medium. Cook for 5 minutes, uncovered.

Add to the pot the cumin, oregano, and salt. Continue to cook on medium for 5 more minutes. Add the sliced carrots, onions, garlic and jalapeño, and cook for 10 minutes, or until the carrots are your desired texture. Taste and add more salt if you prefer.

Cool and then refrigerate. Will keep for one month refrigerated.

Small Batch Preserving: Szechuan Pickled Green Beans

As I've undoubtedly mentioned before, I am a big public library fan, and am particularly in favor of checking out cookbooks. It's a great way to explore a lot of cooking styles without shelling a lot of cash, and it also ensures that I don't add to my already overflowing cookbook collection which I can never seem to pare down. And c'mon, let's face it — how many cookbooks do you really end up loving so much you want to own them? (Answering this question is optional.)

Anyhow, I've really loved reading Put 'Em Up by Sherri Brooks Vinton, and my 3x renewal rate is a testament to the fact I want to make a lot of these recipes. Maybe I will invest in it down the road, but for now here is the first of a few small batch preserving recipes adapted from it.

The modifications I made are ultimately based on the fact I wanted the beans to have some good spiciness to them, and that I didn't quite have all the exact ingredients on hand. The book calls for using whole peppercorns, preferably Szechuan, but as those are absent from my current spice arsenal, I used black peppercorns and added some red pepper flakes for additional flavor. The original recipe also calls for dark sesame oil. I only had regular sesame oil, but then recalled my nearly finished jar of Spicy Sichuan Oil by Sue May from the October food swap. I was thrilled to have such a perfect use for it, so essentially split the oil needed between the two types I had in the pantry.

So far I can attest that these are perfect for an antipasti-like sandwich (think salami, sweet peppers and spicy beans) and as a topping for leftover rice cooked with egg, peppers, salt + pepper and hot sauce. I am sure they will end up garnishing a cocktail or two before they are gone too.

Szechuan Pickled Green Beans
Adapted from Put 'Em Up by Sherri Brooks Vinton

1 pound green beans, washed and tailed
1 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons sesame oil
1.5 tablespoons sichuan oil
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
1 (1-inch) piece of ginger, peeled and sliced into coins
1 large (or 2 small) garlic cloves, sliced
1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Wash and tail green beans. I left the tops on because I like the way it looks, but remove according to preference or to enable fitting well in the jar.

Prepare an ice water bath in a large bowl while bringing a large pot of water to boil. Drop the beans into the boiling water (if multiplying the batch, do no more than 1 pound at a time) and return to a boil. Blanch for 1 minute and then drain into a colander. Place immediately into the ice water bath until completely cool, approximately 3-5 minutes. Once cool, pour into a colander again to drain.

Turn a quart jar on its side to make stacking the beans neatly inside easier.

Combine the vinegar, water, soy sauce, sugar, oils, peppercorns, ginger, garlic and pepper flakes in a nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil and let simmer for 1 minute. Pour the hot brine over the beans. Push them down as needed to ensure they are completely covered by the liquid. If not, heat a small amount of cider vinegar, water and sugar to top up jar.

Once cool, store in fridge for up to 1 month.